BALDY and nearby cliffs
The main wall of Baldy is the perfect place in the laurentians to put your climbing skills to the test. The routes you will find there require power, resistance, and good technique as well. Most of the worthwhile routes are in the 5.12 and 5.13 range. They are all sport climbs.
As an added bonus, Baldy is one of the most comfortable crags in the middle of summer as the wall is in the shade from the early afternoon.
The cliffs of Baldy, of the Palisades, and the Petit Bouleau are all on privately owned land in the Saint-Adèle region. No offical access has been granted for any of these areas. The place is thus officially closed to climbing.
In 2011 the valley of Mont Baldy was bought by a land developer and the approach trail now passes through a construction site that can change a lot from one week to the next. The developer doesn't seem to have a problem with us walking around for now, but that too could change anytime. Be careful and respectful when you're walking on his streets.
Locals are currently trying to negotiate an access that will go around this new residential area, but nothing has come out of this up until now.
Exit 69 off Highway 15, turn right and follow Chemin Pierre-Péladeau for around 3KM.
Follow the new streets to the cliff. The trail that goes up to the wall is near a birch in between two small boulders.
Most of the routes were equipped in the middle of the 90s by Guy Parent, Geoffrey Creighton, and others. A few new routes were added on the main wall more recently ('07 and '08 seasons).
Parking is not allowed anywhere around Mont Baldy. Parking in the little street that leads to the gate is not a good idea anymore since 'No Parking - Tow away zone' signs were added recently.
The building right after that street that was supposed to become a cabaret/dance hall is unoccupied and for sale. There is also a 'No Parking' sign in that lot. If you decide to park there anyway, it is at your own risk.